Dear DT,
We have two Powerstrokes: a 2003 F-450 crew cab 4x4 flat bed dump, with full aluminum radiator, EGR and CAT delete and all new boot and clamps; and the other is a 2006 F-250 King Ranch crew cab 4x4 shot box with cold air, EGR and CAT delete, 5-inch exhaust from stock down pipe out, plus size intake elbow, up size CAC pipe, all-new boots and clamps, SCT programming and some other small stuff.
Both trucks we bought used. The F-450 has a remanufactured garret turbo in it that I use to haul huge loads for a local grower on a goose neck. The F-250 turbo is stock and the good news is that I'm not having any problems with these trucks. But I'd like to know the symptoms of knowing when to replace the turbos and your suggestions on replacements for both trucks. I'm not interested in competition type trucks, but rather just rock sold work trucks.
Joe Dent
Port Saint Lucie, Fla.
There are two reasons to replace a turbo: mechanical failure or heat issues.
Since a turbo is a mechanical device that spins at 140,000 rpm, it's not going to last forever. Journal bearings wear out faster than ball bearings, so knowing what type of turbo you have will help. Also, poor oil quality or long oil change intervals can also lead to mechanical failures. Also, modified diesel engines can put a heavier load on the turbo than what the stock charger was designed for. If you begin hearing strange noises that coincide with boost levels ramping up, have it checked out. You can also remove the air intake boot from the turbo's compressor housing and inspect the compressor wheel for damage and bearing slop. If it looks like the compressor wheel is contacting the compressor housing, it's time to replace or rebuild the turbo.
If you have made modifications to the truck's fuel system in search of horsepower, you're likely to exceed the air flow capacity of the turbo. You can tell if you need a bigger turbo if your truck builds excessive exhaust gas temps, blows black smoke without cleaning up when the turbo is building boost, or if you've made a lot of modifications and can't feel any increase in horsepower. Some trucks have a lot of room for extra power before the stock turbo becomes the limiting factor. Others are pushing the limits right from the factory. The 2007 Dodge common rail Cummins is a fine example. Dodge tweaked the fuel map to get more horsepower without touching the turbo charger. The result was a truck that ran hot and required a turbo upgrade with almost any fuel modification.
Dear DT,
Before advising your readers to leave their hitch in place, you need to remind them to check laws in the state they drive in (Hitch Haters column from Winter 2012 issue). Illinois law states that it cannot be left in the receiver if there is no trailer attached to the vehicle (on the road). The other side of it is most cars would barely hit the bumper anyway. I was rear-ended by a Honda Civic three years ago in my F-150. The guy went under the truck to the point of bending the rear axle on impact. He literally hit his head on the square part of my receiver while still in the driver's seat. The plus side is this is what put me into my current Powerstroke.
The other thing that I would like to caution the readers about is the people that are purposely blowing smoke on pedestrians, bicyclists and other vehicles. This behavior will be the end of the aftermarket for these trucks. As people keep complaining, laws are passed and we will be subjected to testing. In order to pass emissions tests, all equipment must be in place. That will mean no CAT delete, no DPF delete, no EGR delete, etc. They will check for other performance items and will perform a smoke test. Do we want this to happen? I sure don't. I have a lot of money and time in my truck and enjoy the power, performance and work that the truck is capable of.
Sorry, I am not trying to be the all-knowing or fun police, but we need to do things correctly, especially while this area of performance is growing.
Jim Stapleton
Via Email
Thanks for taking the time to give us some feedback, I appreciate it. There is a lot of responsibility that comes with owning a diesel truck so I couldn't agree more with your comments. I have lived in states where I couldn't leave my hitch in, so it would have been a good idea to include some type of a disclaimer in my column. But I was just so focused on what I viewed as a hilarious request from the Escort owner that I failed to mention this.
I also like your thoughts on drivers being more responsible and not blowing smoke on others just for fun because you're right, some strict new laws could really limit us in the future. This is the greatest industry to be a part of and we all need to work together to help diesel technology continue to grow. But since I currently live in a state where I can leave my hitch in, I'm going to continue to protect myself from drivers who are not paying attention..
Dear DT,
I can't seem to find a torque specification for the pinion nut on the rear. I had to change out the pinion seal, which is no big deal but to find the torque for the nut is crazy. I marked the original position of the nut, but would really like to know what the procedure is for the nut as well as the reason behind so much sealant on the splines of the pinion shaft?
Jerry Wentland, Jr.
Via Email
The pinion uses a rotational torque spec. It's a complicated process. The best method for do-it-yourself service is like you described: mark the nut's position and count the threads and reinstall to the same position.
As for the sealant, they completely cover the pinion splines with sealant and then thread the pinion nut on to keep gear oil from leaking down the splines and out of the axle housing.